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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.